Skin science article
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age-Defying Concentrate Versus The INKEY List Q10 Serum
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age-Defying Concentrate Versus The INKEY List Q10 Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squ
Clarins Double Serum Complete Age-Defying Concentrate Versus The INKEY List Q10 Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane and Ubiquinone to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Hexyl Laurate
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Propanediol
Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Parfum
Fructose
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Escin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract
Disodium EDTA
Maltodextrin
Xanthan Gum
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Persea Gratissima Oil Unsaponifiables
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Caramel
Hippophae Rhamnoides Kernel Extract
Sodium Lactate
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Harungana Madagascariensis Extract
Kalanchoe Pinnata Leaf Extract
Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Citric Acid
Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
Tocopherol
Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract
Coco-Glucoside
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Arundo Donax Stem Extract
Jania Rubens Extract
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Citrate
Malpighia Emarginata Seed Extract
Arbutus Unedo Fruit Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
CI 14700
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water, Squalane, Hexyl Laurate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Parfum, Fructose, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Escin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil Unsaponifiables, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Caramel, Hippophae Rhamnoides Kernel Extract, Sodium Lactate, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Harungana Madagascariensis Extract, Kalanchoe Pinnata Leaf Extract, Mangifera Indica Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Arundo Donax Stem Extract, Jania Rubens Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Citrate, Malpighia Emarginata Seed Extract, Arbutus Unedo Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 14700, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Dimethicone
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Phospholipids
Lecithin
Polysorbate 60
Ubiquinone
Sodium Phytate
Glycolipids
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Hydroxide
Glycine Soja Sterols
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hyaluronic Acid
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Squalane, Phospholipids, Lecithin, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone, Sodium Phytate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycine Soja Sterols, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!