Skin science article
Clarins Super Restorative Night Cream All Skin Types Versus IMAGE skincare the MAX Crème
Clarins Super Restorative Night Cream All Skin Types Versus IMAGE skincare the MAX Crème This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging night moisturizer is f
Clarins Super Restorative Night Cream All Skin Types Versus IMAGE skincare the MAX Crème
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Centella Asiatica Extract to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Propanediol
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Butylene Glycol
Carbomer
Glyceryl Caprylate
Sodium Hydroxide
Parfum
Xylitylglucoside
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Citrate
Anhydroxylitol
Xanthan Gum
Tocopheryl Acetate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Xylitol
Disodium EDTA
Alcohol
Sodium Lactate
Glucose
Citric Acid
Harungana Madagascariensis Extract
Marrubium Vulgare Extract
Coco-Glucoside
Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil
Phenethyl Alcohol
Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract
Pancratium Maritimum Extract
Pyrus Sorbus Bud Extract
Ulex Europaeus Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Maris Sal
CI 14700
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Xylitylglucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Citrate, Anhydroxylitol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Xylitol, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Glucose, Citric Acid, Harungana Madagascariensis Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Coco-Glucoside, Balanites Roxburghii Seed Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Pyrus Sorbus Bud Extract, Ulex Europaeus Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Maris Sal, CI 14700, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Sucrose Palmitate
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Linoleate
Phenoxyethanol
Stearic Acid
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Limonene
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Pullulan
Sclerotium Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Ceteth-10 Phosphate
Dicetyl Phosphate
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Isomalt
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Propylene Glycol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Linoleic Acid
Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract
Phospholipids
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Potassium Sorbate
Echinacea Purpurea Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture
Pvp
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Glycine Soja Protein
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Superoxide Dismutase
Lecithin
Polysorbate 20
PEG-8
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract
Polyacrylamide
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract
Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract
Plankton Extract
Sodium Dextran Sulfate
Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Citral
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Laureth-7
Biotin
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Sucrose Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Limonene, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Pullulan, Sclerotium Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isomalt, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Propylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Phospholipids, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Pvp, Sodium Lactate, Carbomer, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Glycine Soja Protein, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Superoxide Dismutase, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, PEG-8, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract, Polyacrylamide, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract, Plankton Extract, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Citral, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Laureth-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biotin
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.
This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.
High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.
Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.