Skin science article
Clé de Peau Beauté Radiant Fluid Foundation SPF 25 PA++ Versus The Ordinary Serum Foundation
Clé de Peau Beauté Radiant Fluid Foundation SPF 25 PA++ Versus The Ordinary Serum Foundation What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Dimethicone Glycerin CI 77891 Butylene Glycol Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Trimethylsilox
Clé de Peau Beauté Radiant Fluid Foundation SPF 25 PA++ Versus The Ordinary Serum Foundation
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Glycerin
CI 77891
Butylene Glycol
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Titanium Dioxide
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Isododecane
Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3
Caprylyl Methicone
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Isopropyl Myristate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
CI 77492
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
CI 77120
Erythritol
Xylitol
Isostearic Acid
Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate
Diisostearyl Malate
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Aluminum Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Stearic Acid
CI 77491
Trisodium EDTA
Methylparaben
CI 77499
Polysilicone-2
Trehalose
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract
Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
BHT
Alcohol
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Parfum
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Dipropylene Glycol
Tocopherol
Citronellol
Geraniol
Linalool
Sodium Metabisulfite
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Theanine
PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether
Glycine
Citrus Junos Seed Extract
Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract
Mica
Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Hydrolyzed Silk
Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, CI 77891, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Titanium Dioxide, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Isododecane, Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3, Caprylyl Methicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Isopropyl Myristate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77492, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, CI 77120, Erythritol, Xylitol, Isostearic Acid, Bis-Behenyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Malate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Aluminum Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, CI 77491, Trisodium EDTA, Methylparaben, CI 77499, Polysilicone-2, Trehalose, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, BHT, Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Parfum, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Dipropylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Sodium Metabisulfite, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Theanine, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Glycine, Citrus Junos Seed Extract, Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract, Mica, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract
Cyclopentasiloxane
Coconut Alkanes
PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Hectorite
Sodium Chloride
Hexyl Laurate
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Alumina
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Chlorphenesin
Iron Oxides
Tin Oxide
CI 77163
Magnesium Stearate
Cyclopentasiloxane, Water, Caprylyl Methicone, Coconut Alkanes, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Hectorite, Sodium Chloride, Hexyl Laurate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Alumina, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, Tin Oxide, Aluminum Hydroxide, CI 77163, Mica, Magnesium Stearate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aluminum Hydroxide is a form of aluminum. It can be naturally found in nature as the mineral gibbsite. In cosmetics, Aluminum Hydroxide is used as a colorant, pH adjuster, and absorbent.
As a colorant, Aluminum Hydroxide may add opacity, or reduce the transparency. Aluminum hydroxide is contains both basic and acidic properties.
According to manufacturers, this ingredient is an emollient and humectant. This means it helps hydrate the skin.
In medicine, this ingredient is used to help relieve heartburn and help heal ulcers.
There is currently no credible scientific evidence linking aluminum hydroxide in cosmetics to increased cancer risk.
Major health organizations allow the use of aluminum hydroxide in personal care products and have not flagged it as a carcinogenic risk at typical usage levels.
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
This is a silicone-based ingredient that helps create a smooth, silky, "bouncy" texture. It also acts as an emulsifier that prevents ingredients from separating in a formula.
Due to its large molecule size and water-insolubility, this ingredient is unlikely to be absorbed into skin. Irritation and sensitization tests have found reactions to silicones are considered very rare.
You'll likely see this ingredient in leave-on products at concentrations of 0.03%-3%.
This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.
Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.
Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Disteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Peg-10 Dimethicone is silicone with conditioner and emulsifier properties. It mostly acts as an emollient in skincare and and humectant in haircare.
According to the manufacturer, acidic formulations decrease the stability of this ingredient. It works best in neutral or near neutral formulations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Triethoxycaprylylsilane is a silicon-based surface modifier that makes sunscreens feel silky and makeup stay put.
Its main job is to coat mineral particles like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and color pigments in a thin, oily layer so they spread smoothly, don't clump, and stick to skin better.
This ingredient is typically used at low levels (up to 2.5% in eyeshadow and 1% in lipstick).
This silicone is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
It is not soluble in water and helps increase water-resistance in products.
According to a manufacturer, it can blend seamlessly with silicone oils, such as Cyclopentasiloxane.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!