Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Cream Versus Neutrogena Rapid Firming™ Peptide Contour Lift Face Cream

Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Cream Versus Neutrogena Rapid Firming™ Peptide Contour Lift Face Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine sk

Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Cream Versus Neutrogena Rapid Firming™ Peptide Contour Lift Face Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Gluconolactone and Glycolic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Isostearyl Neopentanoate

Butylene Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Algae Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Whey Protein

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Acetyl Glucosamine

Caffeine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Cetearyl Glucoside

Tocopheryl Acetate

Isohexadecane

Petrolatum

Caprylyl Glycol

Glycereth-26

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

PEG-8

Polysorbate 20

Hexylene Glycol

Polysorbate 80

Carbomer

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Sorbitan Oleate

Cetyl Alcohol

Sodium Citrate

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Glycerin, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Algae Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Whey Protein, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Isohexadecane, Petrolatum, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycereth-26, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, PEG-8, Polysorbate 20, Hexylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Carbomer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Gluconolactone

Propanediol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides

Glycolic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Glyceryl Dilaurate

Acetyl Dipeptide-31 Amide

Acetyl Tyrosinamide

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Steareth-10

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Methyl Decenol

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides

Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Squalane

Isostearic Acid

Propylene Carbonate

Sclerotium Gum

PEG-40 Stearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Polysorbate 60

Isopropyl Myristate

Ceteareth-20

Isobutyl Methyl Tetrahydropyranol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Isoceteth-10

Silica

Methyldihydrojasmonate

Ethylene Brassylate

Chlorphenesin

Water, Isohexadecane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Glycolic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Dilaurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-31 Amide, Dimethicone, Acetyl Tyrosinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, PEG-100 Stearate, Steareth-10, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Methyl Decenol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Isostearic Acid, Propylene Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sclerotium Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-40 Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Isopropyl Myristate, Ceteareth-20, Isobutyl Methyl Tetrahydropyranol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Isoceteth-10, Silica, Disodium EDTA, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Ethylene Brassylate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.

Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.

Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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