Skin science article
Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream
Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the sk
Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Madecassoside to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Glycerin
Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Glyceryl Behenate
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Propanediol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Whey Protein
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Butylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Caffeine
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Sucrose
Acetyl Glucosamine
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Arachidyl Glucoside
Jojoba Esters
Tridecyl Stearate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Molasses Extract
Trehalose
Ethylhexylglycerin
Cholesterol
Bisabolol
PEG-8
Cera Alba
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Tocopherol
Nylon-12
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Arachidyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Behenyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearic Acid
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Hydroxide
BHT
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Citrate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Glycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Glyceryl Behenate, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Whey Protein, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sucrose, Acetyl Glucosamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Jojoba Esters, Tridecyl Stearate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Molasses Extract, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cholesterol, Bisabolol, PEG-8, Cera Alba, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Nylon-12, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Dimethicone
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Ascorbic Acid
Mannose
Paraffinum Liquidum
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
PEG-100 Stearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Potassium Hydroxide
Paraffin
Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer
Microcrystalline Wax
Madecassoside
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethiconol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Xanthan Gum
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Mannose, Butylene Glycol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Potassium Hydroxide, Paraffin, Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Madecassoside, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!