Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum

Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Isododecane

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Polysilicone-11

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Squalane

Hypnea Musciformis Extract

Gelidiella Acerosa Extract

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Caffeine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Whey Protein

Isohexadecane

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Acetyl Glucosamine

Cholesterol

PEG-8

Faex Extract

PEG-6

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Phosphate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Polysorbate 80

Carbomer

Hexylene Glycol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Potassium Hydroxide

Tin Oxide

Disodium Phosphate

Citric Acid

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Citrate

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

CI 77891

Water, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Polysilicone-11, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Squalane, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Whey Protein, Isohexadecane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Cholesterol, PEG-8, Faex Extract, PEG-6, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Phosphate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Polysorbate 80, Carbomer, Hexylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Tin Oxide, Disodium Phosphate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, CI 77891

Niacinamide

Heptyl Undecylenate

Octyldodecanol

Glycereth-26

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Algae Extract

Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Linalool

Geraniol

Citronellol

Limonene

Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Glucosamine Hcl

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Molasses Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Pisum Sativum Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Metabisulfite

Sodium Sulfite

Sodium Phytate

BHT

Essential Oils

Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Heptyl Undecylenate, Octyldodecanol, Glycereth-26, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Algae Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Limonene, Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Caffeine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Molasses Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-8, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Sulfite, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Essential Oils

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

This extract comes from cucumber. Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.

Cucumbers have anti-inflammatory, barrier repair, and hydrating properties.

They contain shikimate dehydrigenase, an enzyme shown to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin.

The amino acids found in cucumbers help nourish our skin's natural acid mantle (it's an important part of our skin barrier). This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to protect us from bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants.

Unless you have an allergy to cucumbers, this is generally a non-irritating ingredient.

Fun fact: Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This is a synthetic polymer made by combining glycerin with polymethacrylic acid.

It is a non-drying, non-greasy moisturizer that helps enhance the feel and slip of formulations, helps stabilize emulsions, creates a film, and controls viscosity.

As a film former, it creates a light and flexible layer on the skin's surface. This helps lock in moisture without feeling heavy.

It's typically used at concentrations up to 1.9% in leave-on products. CIR has concluded that these ingredients are safe in cosmetics at current use levels.

Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't readily penetrate into skin and mostly just sits on the surface. A large UK-based patch test study of over 1,300 patients found that sensitization to related acrylate copolymers is rare.

Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.

It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.

As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.

Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.

This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.

A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 is a synthetic lipopeptide. This just means it's a short chain of six amino acids with a palmitic acid molecule attached to one end.

The palmitoyl group increases the lipophilicity, helping it penetrate the lipid-rich outer layer of skin more effectively.

Once inside, it helps with keeping skin springy and firm. It works by mimicking the skin repair signals your skin naturally sends out when it's damaged and telling it to kick into rebuild mode.

Studies have shown it can help strengthen the skin barrier as well so it's useful beyond just anti-aging.

In vitro studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure. Just keep in mind most of the strong evidence is from lab studies rather than large-scale clinical trials.

Lab studies suggest it can switch on genes that help skin cells grow, move around, and rebuild skin structure.

This ingredient is usually used at very low concentrations (0.002% in leave-on products).

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

PEG-8 is a synthetic polymer used as a humectant and solvent.

This ingredient is able to help dissolve active ingredients, including water. This gives it humectant properties.

It is soluble in water. The number '8' stands for the molecular weight of the ingredient.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

We don't have a description for Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract yet.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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