Skin science article
CNP Laboratory Propolis Energy Ampule Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide
CNP Laboratory Propolis Energy Ampule Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide This calming essence is formulated around Propolis Extract and Madecassoside to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This acne serum is formulated around
CNP Laboratory Propolis Energy Ampule Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide
This calming essence is formulated around Propolis Extract and Madecassoside to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propolis Extract 10%
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Polysorbate 20
Sophora Flavescens Extract
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
Propanediol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Carbomer
Arginine
Madecassoside
Allantoin
Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Punica Granatum Extract
PEG-8
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Beta-Glucan
Sodium Citrate
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Honey Extract
Sodium Lactate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Biotin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Disodium EDTA
Water, Propolis Extract 10%, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 20, Sophora Flavescens Extract, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Propanediol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Arginine, Madecassoside, Allantoin, Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, PEG-8, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Citrate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Honey Extract, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Biotin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Disodium EDTA
Propolis Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Betaine Salicylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Tromethamine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Dextrin
Octanediol
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Propolis Extract is a natural ingredient derived from propolis (also known as bee glue). Bees make propolis by mixing their saliva and beeswax with resins collected from tree buds and plants.
This ingredient is packed with bioactive compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids, and amino acids that give it antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Research shows it can help:
It also pairs nicely with hydrating ingredients like niacinamide and ceramides.
Just so you know, Propolis Extract is recognized as a contact allergen. In patch tests done in the EU, roughly 1-6% of patients react to it. Be sure to steer clear of this ingredient if you have a known allergy to bee products.
Since it is an animal-derived product, this ingredient is not considered vegan. For vegan alternatives, check out Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate or Centella Asiatica Extract.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!