Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Cocokind Ceramide Barrier Serum Versus Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum

Cocokind Ceramide Barrier Serum Versus Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Beta-Glucan to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This brightening serum is form

Cocokind Ceramide Barrier Serum Versus Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Beta-Glucan to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Glutathione to brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Squalane

Beta-Glucan

Lysolecithin

Sclerotium Gum

Pullulan

Xanthan Gum

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide AP

Ceramide Eos

Ceramide EOP

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium Anisate

Tocopherol

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Ceteareth-25

Silica

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Cholesterol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Glyceryl Caprylate

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Ethylhexylglycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Citric Acid

Behenic Acid

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Beta-Glucan, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Tocopherol, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceteareth-25, Silica, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Cholesterol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glyceryl Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Behenic Acid

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate

Ethoxydiglycol

Dicaprylyl Ether

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract

Glutathione

Acetyl Cysteine

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Ergothioneine

Gluconolactone

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Calcium Gluconate

Propanediol, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Water, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract, Glutathione, Acetyl Cysteine, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Ergothioneine, Tocopherol, Gluconolactone, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  3. 03Azelaic Acid
  4. 04Dicaprylyl Ether
  5. 05Glycolic Acid
  6. 06Glycerin
  7. 07Glyceryl Stearate
  8. 08Cetearyl Alcohol
  9. 09Sodium Hydroxide
  10. 10Dimethicone
  11. 11Nylon-12
  12. 12Benzoic Acid
  13. 13Butylene Glycol
  14. 14Ceteareth-33
  15. 15Disodium EDTA
  16. 16Parfum
  17. 17Glycine Soja Oil
  18. 18Hydrogenated Lecithin
  19. 19Oligopeptide-68
  20. 20Sclerotium Gum
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side