Skin science article
Codex Labs Shaant Balancing Clay Mask Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oatmeal Mask
Codex Labs Shaant Balancing Clay Mask Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oatmeal Mask This wash off mask is made with Lactobacillus Ferment and Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost. This wash off mask is made with Colloidal Oatmeal and Butyrospermum Park
Codex Labs Shaant Balancing Clay Mask Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oatmeal Mask
This wash off mask is made with Lactobacillus Ferment and Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.
This wash off mask is made with Colloidal Oatmeal and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter for a rinse-off calming boost.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Lactobacillus Ferment
Butylene Glycol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Glycerin
Kaolin
Bentonite
Stearic Acid
Oryza Sativa Starch
Lactobacillus
Cetyl Palmitate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Xanthan Gum
Sclerotium Gum
Volcanic Ash
Cetyl Alcohol
Distarch Phosphate
Octyldodecanol
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract
Fucus Spiralis Extract
Tetraselmis Chui Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Ocimum Americanum Leaf Oil
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Silica
Sodium Phytate
Citric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Eugenol
Water, Lactobacillus Ferment, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glycerin, Kaolin, Bentonite, Stearic Acid, Oryza Sativa Starch, Lactobacillus, Cetyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Volcanic Ash, Cetyl Alcohol, Distarch Phosphate, Octyldodecanol, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Extract, Fucus Spiralis Extract, Tetraselmis Chui Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Ocimum Americanum Leaf Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Silica, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Eugenol
Colloidal Oatmeal
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Polysorbate 20
Decyl Glucoside
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Bisabolol
Vanillin
Polysorbate 60
Dimethicone
Phenoxyethanol
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water, Colloidal Oatmeal, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Bisabolol, Vanillin, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Tetrasodium EDTA
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.
As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Stearate Se prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant, meaning it helps cleanse the skin. Surfactants help gather oil, dirt, and other pollutants so they may be rinsed away easily.
Emollients help your skin stay smooth and soft. It does so by creating a film on top of the skin that helps trap moisture in.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.