Skin science article
Conscious Chemist Snail Magic Barrier Repair All-In-One Cream Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Conscious Chemist Snail Magic Barrier Repair All-In-One Cream Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate
Conscious Chemist Snail Magic Barrier Repair All-In-One Cream Versus Conscious Chemist Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Propanediol
Glycerin
Cetearyl Olivate
Trehalose
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Betaine
PPG-5-Ceteth-20
Carbomer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hydroxide
Hydrolyzed Cellulose
Panthenol
Allantoin
Xanthan Gum
Squalane
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Diacetyl Boldine
Water, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Trehalose, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrolyzed Cellulose, Panthenol, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Squalane, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Diacetyl Boldine
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenethyl Alcohol
Saccharide Isomerate
Disodium EDTA
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Lactic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Sodium Lactate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Aminoethylphosphinic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Water, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Aminoethylphosphinic Acid, Butylene Glycol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.