Conscious Chemist The Defender Peptide Retinol Night Cream Versus Dot & Key Skincare Retinol + Ceramide Night Cream

Conscious Chemist The Defender Peptide Retinol Night Cream Versus Dot & Key Skincare Retinol + Ceramide Night Cream

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Retinyl Palmitate and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propylene Glycol

Isopropyl Myristate

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Sodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Lauryl Glucoside

Phenoxyethanol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Alcohol

Glyceryl Oleate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Allantoin

Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil

Retinol

Polysorbate 20

BHA

Lecithin

Acetyl Glutamine

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Hexapeptide-11

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Bisabolol

Adansonia Digitata Oil

Caffeine

BHT

Disodium EDTA

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Ubiquinone

Water, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Sodium Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Lauryl Glucoside, Phenoxyethanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Alcohol, Glyceryl Oleate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Allantoin, Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, BHA, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Hexapeptide-11, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Adansonia Digitata Oil, Caffeine, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Ubiquinone

Glycerin

Dicaprylyl Ether

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Polyacrylamide

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Laureth-7

Methylsilanol Mannuronate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Silanetriol

Hyaluronic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Milk Lipids

Ceramide NP

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Panthenol

CI 16185

CI 15985

CI 42090

Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silanetriol, Hyaluronic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Milk Lipids, Ceramide NP, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Panthenol, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, CI 16185, CI 15985, CI 42090

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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