Skin science article
Cos De BAHA AZ15 Azelaic Acid 15% + MSM 1% Serum Versus APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum
Cos De BAHA AZ15 Azelaic Acid 15% + MSM 1% Serum Versus APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and clear breakouts. This calming ampoule is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide
Cos De BAHA AZ15 Azelaic Acid 15% + MSM 1% Serum Versus APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum
This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and clear breakouts.
This calming ampoule is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propylene Glycol
Azelaic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
1,2-Hexanediol
Polysorbate 20
Dimethyl Sulfone
Propanediol
Betaine
Panthenol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Allantoin
Ceramide NP
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Centella Asiatica Extract
Madecassoside
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Water, Propylene Glycol, Azelaic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Sulfone, Propanediol, Betaine, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Madecassic Acid
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Squalane
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Beta-Glucan
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Cellulose Gum
Disodium EDTA
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Citric Acid
Xanthan Gum
Inulin
Cellulose
Glucose
Fructose
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Azelaic Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Squalane, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Cellulose Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Inulin, Cellulose, Glucose, Fructose, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, 1,2-Hexanediol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!