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COSRX Refresh AHA BHA Vitamin C Lip Plumper Versus NourishMax Lip Plumper Peptide Complex Balm

COSRX Refresh AHA BHA Vitamin C Lip Plumper Versus NourishMax Lip Plumper Peptide Complex Balm This smoothing lip moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles. What's inside Key

By Peptide Skincare & Beauty Editorial TeamPublished

COSRX Refresh AHA BHA Vitamin C Lip Plumper Versus NourishMax Lip Plumper Peptide Complex Balm

This smoothing lip moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Petrolatum

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyisobutene

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Diisostearyl Malate

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Microcrystalline Wax

Vanillyl Butyl Ether

Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Butylene Glycol

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Amber Powder

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Citric Acid

Betaine Salicylate

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Diisostearyl Malate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Vanillyl Butyl Ether, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Water, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Butylene Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Amber Powder, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Citric Acid, Betaine Salicylate, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Tribehenin

Sorbitan Isostearate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Lactic Acid

Parfum

Limonene

Citral

Citronellol

Linalool

Petrolatum, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lactic Acid, Parfum, Limonene, Citral, Citronellol, Linalool

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Petrolatum is more commonly known as petroleum jelly. It is created by mixing waxes and mineral oils.

This ingredient is effective at reducing water loss by 99%. This is because it is an occlusive. Occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier on the skin to prevent evaporation. This property makes it great for hydrating dry skin.

Pro tip: Use occlusives, such as this ingredient, on damp skin for the best results.

The quality or origin of petrolatum is only known when disclosed by the brand. Most cosmetic petrolatum has gone through several purification stages.

Another benefit of occlusives is it protects your skin against infection or allergies.

Petrolatum is fungal acne safe. It is a hydrocarbon with no fatty acid structure, so Malassezia cannot metabolize it. In-vitro studies support negligible growth stimulation as well.

It's also worth noting that petrolatum has a comedogenic rating of 0. In updated rabbit ear testing (and in human testing), petrolatum was found to be not comedogenic. This means it didn’t promote comedone formation in standard models.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
  4. 04In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
  5. 05One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
  6. 06For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
  7. 07This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
  8. 08Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
  9. 09That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
  10. 10Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
  11. 11In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than…
  12. 12Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
  13. 13A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
  14. 14A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
  15. 15You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
  16. 16Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
  17. 17Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
  18. 18As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
  19. 19In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
  20. 20Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Source · skinsort.com ⟶
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