Skin science article
COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Facial Oil
COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Facial Oil This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This hydrating oil is formulate
COSRX The Vitamin C 23 Serum Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Facial Oil
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This hydrating oil is formulated around Squalane and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to hydrate skin and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ascorbic Acid 23%
Propanediol
Dimethicone
Tromethamine
Panthenol
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Squalane
Caffeine
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Sulfite
Disodium EDTA
Glutathione
Adenosine
Acetyl Glucosamine
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Allantoin
Dextrin
Tocotrienols
Tocopherol
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Butylene Glycol
Arginine
Niacinamide
Pentylene Glycol
Alcohol Denat.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Methyl Trimethicone
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Beta-Carotene
Water, Ascorbic Acid 23%, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Tromethamine, Panthenol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Caffeine, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Sulfite, Disodium EDTA, Glutathione, Adenosine, Acetyl Glucosamine, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Dextrin, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Butylene Glycol, Arginine, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Methyl Trimethicone, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Beta-Carotene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Retinyl Palmitate
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Limonene
Linalool
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, Persea Gratissima Oil, Limonene, Linalool
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.