Skin science article
Creamy Peptide Cream Anti-aging Firmador Versus Ilso Super Melting Sebum Softener
Creamy Peptide Cream Anti-aging Firmador Versus Ilso Super Melting Sebum Softener This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles. This wash off mask is made with Salix Alba Bark Ex
Creamy Peptide Cream Anti-aging Firmador Versus Ilso Super Melting Sebum Softener
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This wash off mask is made with Salix Alba Bark Extract and Papain for a rinse-off oil-control boost.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Acetyl Glucosamine
Propanediol
Glycerin
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetearyl Olivate
Phenoxyethanol
Butylene Glycol
Sorbitan Olivate
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglutamic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Gluconate
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
1,2-Hexanediol
Carbomer
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Sodium Lactate
Lavandula Angustifolia Extract
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Polysorbate 20
Lecithin
Cyrtopodium Cardiochilum Pseudobulb Extract
Sodium Phosphate
Tocopherol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Copper Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-10
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-5
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Water, Acetyl Glucosamine, Propanediol, Glycerin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglutamic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Sodium Lactate, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Polysorbate 20, Lecithin, Cyrtopodium Cardiochilum Pseudobulb Extract, Sodium Phosphate, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-10, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-5, Sh-Polypeptide-9
Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract
Arctium Lappa Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Sinense Flower Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Viscum Album Leaf Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate
Phytosterols
Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Panthenol
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Squalane
Glucose
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Prunus Mume Fruit Extract
Malus Domestica Fruit Extract
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Papain
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract
Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Madecassoside
Citric Acid
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Sinense Flower Extract, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Viscum Album Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Phytosterols, Ethylhexylglycerin, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Sodium Gluconate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Panthenol, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Squalane, Glucose, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Papain, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Madecassoside, Citric Acid, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lavandula Angustifolia Extract comes from the flowers and leaves of the lavender plant. It's mostly used in skincare for its scent plus a bit of skin conditioning properties.
Lab research credits it with soothing, antioxidant, and wound-supporting effects. This is largely thanks to a compound called rosmarinic acid.
Rosmarinic acid has been shown to calm inflammation signaling in skin cells (the same pathways that flare up in conditions like eczema and psoriasis). It also has real antimicrobial and antifungal activity in test-tube studies.
This ingredient is typically used in low concentrations (generally well under 1%) where it acts as a light fragrance + mild skin soother extract.
The main thing to know is that lavender contains two naturally fragrant molecules: Linalool and Linalyl Acetate. Some people's skin does perfectly fine with fragrance while others don't.
Just be sure to patch test if you have reactive skin or known plant allergies.
Linalool and Linalyl Acetate are gentle when fresh but oxidize into compounds that can cause allergic contact dermatitis when exposed to air. Patch-test studies of patients already being investigated for skin allergies found about 5-7% of patients had reactions to oxidized linalool, and 2.8% of patients reacted to oxidized lavender oil.
This is the synthetic salt of gluconic acid, a form of PHA and mild exfoliant.
It is mainly used to stabilize oil and butter formulations from going bad. Sodium gluconate is a humectant, pH regulator, and chelating agent.
Chelating agents help neutralize unwanted metals from affecting the formulation.
Sodium gluconate is water-soluble.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!