Skin science article
Curology The Moisturizer Versus Dermatica Nourishing Ceramide + Peptide Moisturizer
Curology The Moisturizer Versus Dermatica Nourishing Ceramide + Peptide Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Dimethicone and Polysilicone-11 to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formula
Curology The Moisturizer Versus Dermatica Nourishing Ceramide + Peptide Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Dimethicone and Polysilicone-11 to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Propanediol
Polysilicone-11
Cetearyl Olivate
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sorbitan Olivate
Polyisobutene
Carbomer
Aminomethyl Propanol
Citric Acid
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
Dimethiconol
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyisobutene, Carbomer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Citric Acid, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethiconol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside
Cetearyl Alcohol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Niacinamide
Vitis Vinifera Oil
Panthenol
Sorbitan Stearate
Squalane
Tocopheryl Acetate
Phenoxyethanol
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Polysorbate 20
Xanthan Gum
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ceramide EOP
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Vitis Vinifera Oil, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Sorbitan Stearate, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide EOP
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!