Current State Peptide + Caffeine Firming Eye Cream Versus Ilia Bright Start Retinol Alternative Brightening Eye Cream

Current State Peptide + Caffeine Firming Eye Cream Versus Ilia Bright Start Retinol Alternative Brightening Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Glycerin

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Caffeine

Oenothera Biennis Oil

C15-19 Alkane

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract

Phyllanthus Emblica Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Oryza Sativa Extract

Superoxide Dismutase

Soybean Peroxidase

Maltodextrin

Lactobacillus Ferment

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Isoamyl Cocoate

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Isoamyl Laurate

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Glycerin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Caffeine, Oenothera Biennis Oil, C15-19 Alkane, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Phyllanthus Emblica Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Oryza Sativa Extract, Superoxide Dismutase, Soybean Peroxidase, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isoamyl Cocoate, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Isoamyl Laurate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol

Persea Gratissima Oil

Propanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer

Silica

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Behenyl Alcohol

Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters

Mica

Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Squalene

Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride

Sodium Phytate

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Phytosterols

Tocopherol

Sodium Citrate

CI 77891

CI 77491

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Persea Gratissima Oil, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caffeine, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Mica, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalene, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Citrate, CI 77891, CI 77491

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters isn't fungal acne safe.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

This ingredient also goes by the name SSL. It is a non-toxic, biodegradable ingredient made from renewable sources.

SSL is typically used as a surfactant and emulsifier in skincare to stabilize water-based formulas and improve texture. It can be synthetic or animal-derived.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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