Skin science article
D'Alba Double Serum All in One Multi Balm Versus Aquaphor Lip Balm Repair Stick
D'Alba Double Serum All in One Multi Balm Versus Aquaphor Lip Balm Repair Stick This hydrating serum is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair lip moistu
D'Alba Double Serum All in One Multi Balm Versus Aquaphor Lip Balm Repair Stick
This hydrating serum is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Ricinus Communis Seed Oil and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Synthetic Wax
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Octyldodecanol
Polyethylene
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Tocopheryl Acetate
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Monascus Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Borago Officinalis Extract
Beta Vulgaris Root Extract
Angelica Gigas Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
Tuber Magnatum Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Rose Extract
Jasminum Officinale Extract
Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus Flower Extract
Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract
Iris Versicolor Extract
Freesia Refracta Extract
Collagen Extract
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Glycine Soja Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Microcrystalline Wax
Bisabolol
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Tocopherol
Water
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
Ceramide NP
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Butylene Glycol
Glutathione
Ascorbic Acid
1,2-Hexanediol
Glucose
Mannose
Parfum
Dehydroacetic Acid
Citral
Linalool
Citronellol
Hexyl Cinnamal
Limonene
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Synthetic Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Polyethylene, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Monascus Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Rose Extract, Jasminum Officinale Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus Flower Extract, Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract, Iris Versicolor Extract, Freesia Refracta Extract, Collagen Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Microcrystalline Wax, Bisabolol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Tocopherol, Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Ceramide NP, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol, Glutathione, Ascorbic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glucose, Mannose, Parfum, Dehydroacetic Acid, Citral, Linalool, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Beeswax
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Panthenol
Dimethicone
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Octyldodecanol, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Beeswax, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Panthenol, Dimethicone, Water, Tocopheryl Acetate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!