Skin science article
Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream Versus Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 + Peptide Night Moisturizer
Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream Versus Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 + Peptide Night Moisturizer This calming moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Ceramide NP to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging nigh
Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream Versus Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 + Peptide Night Moisturizer
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Ceramide NP to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Centella Asiatica Extract
Sorbitan Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearic Acid
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Ceramide NP
Polysorbate 60
Candelilla Cera
Chlorphenesin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Morus Alba Root Extract
Tromethamine
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Guaiazulene
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Lecithin
Acetyl Glutamine
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Ceramide NP, Polysorbate 60, Candelilla Cera, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Morus Alba Root Extract, Tromethamine, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Guaiazulene, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol
Dimethicone
Tapioca Starch
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Retinol
Retinyl Propionate
Niacinamide
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Polyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
DMDM Hydantoin
Polysorbate 20
Laureth-4
Laureth-7
Dimethiconol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Aminomethyl Propanol
Titanium Dioxide
Disodium EDTA
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Tapioca Starch, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Retinol, Retinyl Propionate, Niacinamide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, DMDM Hydantoin, Polysorbate 20, Laureth-4, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Laureth-7, Dimethiconol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Aminomethyl Propanol, Titanium Dioxide, Disodium EDTA, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!