Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Sheet Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Centella Asiatica Calming Mask

Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Sheet Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Centella Asiatica Calming Mask

This calming sheet mask is formulated around Salix Alba Bark Extract and Allantoin to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming sheet mask is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Methylpropanediol

Glycereth-26

1,2-Hexanediol

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Glycerin

Erythritol

Betaine

Arginine

Carbomer

Allantoin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Propanediol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Carrageenan

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Disodium EDTA

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Centella Asiatica Extract

Water, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Glycerin, Erythritol, Betaine, Arginine, Carbomer, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Propanediol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Carrageenan, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Centella Asiatica Extract

Niacinamide

Hydroxyacetophenone

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Adenosine

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Panthenol

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Water, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carrageenan, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Panthenol, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Propanediol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carrageenan comes from red seaweed or algae. It is made up of polysaccharides and a highly flexible compound. Red algae cell walls are rich in carrageenan.

In cosmetics, it helps to thicken the texture. Studies show carrageenan extracted from red algae possess antioxidant properties. Components found in carrageenan include: lipids, fatty acids, Vitamin E, proteins, and several amino acids.

Learn more about different types of algae.

Carrageenan is also commonly used in medicine and food. It is a vegan alternative to animal-based gelatin.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycereth-26 is a synthetic ingredient and polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin and helps keep your skin moisturized.

It is a humectant and helps add texture to products. It can make your product thicker.

As a humectant, it helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps your skin stay hydrated.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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