Skin science article
Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream Versus The INKEY List Symbright Moisturizer
Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream Versus The INKEY List Symbright Moisturizer This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to calm redness and hydrate skin. What's inside Key Ingredients Benef
Dear, Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream Versus The INKEY List Symbright Moisturizer
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Stearic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Microcrystalline Wax
Betaine
Sorbitan Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Dimethicone
Arginine
Carbomer
Chlorphenesin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract
Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Citric Acid
Beta-Glucan
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Althaea Rosea Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide NP
Disodium EDTA
Polyquaternium-51
Apium Graveolens Extract
Brassica Rapa Leaf Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract
Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract
Lysine Hcl
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Acetyl Methionine
Theanine
Proline
Palmitic Acid
Arachidic Acid
Oleic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Algin
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Natto Gum
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Microcrystalline Wax, Betaine, Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Arginine, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Citric Acid, Beta-Glucan, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-51, Apium Graveolens Extract, Brassica Rapa Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lysine Hcl, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Methionine, Theanine, Proline, Palmitic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Algin, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Natto Gum, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl Alcohol
Sclareolide
Mica
Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dehydroacetic Acid
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sea Water
CI 77891
Water, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Sclareolide, Mica, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sea Water, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!