Deconstruct AHA BHA Exfoliating Scalp Serum Versus The INKEY List Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Scrub

Deconstruct AHA BHA Exfoliating Scalp Serum Versus The INKEY List Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Scrub

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

Propylene Glycol

Zinc Chloride

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Extract

Malva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Triethanolamine

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Lactic Acid

Salicylic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Hydrolyzed Corn Protein

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Gluconate

Rapeseed Sophorolipids

Pisum Sativum Sprout Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Glycerin

Phosphatidylcholine

Disodium Phosphate

Biotin

Potassium Phosphate

Cetrimonium Chloride

Tocopherol

Disodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Propylene Glycol, Zinc Chloride, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Triethanolamine, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Rapeseed Sophorolipids, Pisum Sativum Sprout Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Glycerin, Phosphatidylcholine, Disodium Phosphate, Biotin, Potassium Phosphate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate

Glycolic Acid

Propanediol

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Betaine

Sodium Hydroxide

Polyquaternium-10

Benzyl Alcohol

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate

Panthenol

Dehydroacetic Acid

Mannitol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Tetraselmis Suecica Extract

Potassium Benzoate

Water, Glycolic Acid, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Betaine, Glycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Polyquaternium-10, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dehydroacetic Acid, Mannitol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Benzoate, Tetraselmis Suecica Extract, Lactic Acid, Potassium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.

Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.

Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

Like glycolic acid, it can:

Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.

Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.

To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.

Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.

Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.

When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.

Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.

Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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