Derma E Advanced Peptide & Collagen Eye Cream Versus Dermalogica Multivitamin Power Firm Eye Cream

Derma E Advanced Peptide & Collagen Eye Cream Versus Dermalogica Multivitamin Power Firm Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Retinyl Palmitate to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Stearic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Panthenol

Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Acacia Seyal Gum Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Retinyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Allantoin

Dimethicone

Xanthan Gum

Zinc Oxide

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Panthenol, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Allantoin, Dimethicone, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Oxide, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Cyclopentasiloxane

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Polylactic Acid

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Ascorbic Acid

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Boron Nitride

Tocopherol

Hydrogenated Soybean Oil

Benzyl Alcohol

Aroma

Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Polylactic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Boron Nitride, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil, Benzyl Alcohol, Aroma

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Retinyl Palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include Tretinoin and Retinol.

This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.

First, Retinyl Palmitate is created from Palmitic Acid and Retinol. It is a Retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.

This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA Retinoic Acid.

Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen. Once it's on your skin, enzymes called esterases convert it into Retinol, then into Retinal, and finally into Retinoic Acid; that's three steps with a little lost at each one.

The benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated due to this long and ineffective conversion line.

So why use it at all?

The answer is stability. Retinol and Retinoic Acid break down fast when they hit light, heat, and air, and Retinoic Acid can be pretty irritating on top of that.

Retinyl Palmitate is much more stable and gentler, making it easier to formulate with and easier on sensitive skin (even if it's weaker gram for gram).

Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:

Newer research from 2023-2025 also found that Retinyl Palmitate works especially well when paired with Retinol. The two seem to cover each other's weak spots; retinol brings the potency while Retinyl Palmitate brings the stability and gentleness. Together, they repair UV damage better than either one does alone.

This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.

The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.

Most of this traces back to a 2012 US National Toxicology Program (NTP) study where hairless mice coated in Retinyl Palmitate cream and exposed to UV light developed skin tumors faster.

Here's the nuance, though.

When the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel went back through that study, they found methodological flaws and decided the results couldn't be interpreted as proof of extra risk.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) said the mouse findings might point to a concern but they're hard to apply to humans since hairless mouse skin and human skin behave differently.

While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UVA, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is completely safe to use when used correctly.

Both the CIR and the SCCS consider it safe at the concentrations used in cosmetics; the SCCS specifically cleared retinoids up to 0.05% in body lotions and 0.3% in face creams, hand creams, and rinse-off products.

As of 2025, the EU has written those limits into law, plus a label warning about your total Vitamin A intake from all sources.

All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.

One more note: if you're pregnant, high doses of Vitamin A can be a concern, so a lot of people skip topical retinoids (including Retinyl Palmitate) during pregnancy just to be safe. Check with your doctor if you're unsure.

Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

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