Derma E Advanced Peptides & Flora-Collagen Eye Cream Versus Andalou Naturals Age Defying Rejuvenating Eye Balm

Derma E Advanced Peptides & Flora-Collagen Eye Cream Versus Andalou Naturals Age Defying Rejuvenating Eye Balm

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Stearic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Panthenol

Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Acacia Seyal Gum Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf Extract

Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Allantoin

Dimethicone

Xanthan Gum

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Panthenol, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Allantoin, Dimethicone, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Stearyl Alcohol

Myristyl Myristate

Squalane

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Bakuchiol

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Aronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Isomalt

Lecithin

Camellia Sinensis Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Superoxide Dismutase

Tocopherol

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Stearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Glycerin, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Bakuchiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Aronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Isomalt, Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Superoxide Dismutase, Allantoin, Tocopherol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate is a citric acid ester of glyceryl stearate.

It is an emulsifier, emollient, and a surfactant.

Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating. Common ingredients include oils and water, which do not mix naturally. Emulsifiers have properties that help keep ingredients such as these together.

Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. They do this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.

Surfactants help gather oils, dirt, and other pollutants from the skin. This helps them to be easily rinsed away.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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