Skin science article
Derma E Advanced Peptides & Flora-Collagen Serum Versus Eveline Serum Shot Multi Peptides
Derma E Advanced Peptides & Flora-Collagen Serum Versus Eveline Serum Shot Multi Peptides This anti-aging serum is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging
Derma E Advanced Peptides & Flora-Collagen Serum Versus Eveline Serum Shot Multi Peptides
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Ceramide NP and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Panthenol
Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract
Acacia Seyal Gum Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower
Allantoin
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Citrate
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Cellulose Gum
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Panthenol, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Propanediol
Tripelargonin
Betaine
Sea Water
Pullulan
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Gardenia Jasminoides Meristem Cell Culture
Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Carnosine
Collagen
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Serine
Alanine
Glycine
Lactobacillus
N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Glutamic Acid
Ceramide Ng
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Lysine Hcl
Threonine
Heptapeptide-7
Lecithin
Acetyl Hexapeptide-49
Arginine
Tetrapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Oligopeptide-68
Acetyl Heptapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Proline
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Dextran
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Lauryl Glucoside
Sodium PCA
Glycine Soja Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Pentaerythrityl Distearate
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Lactate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sodium Carbomer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Butylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Citric Acid
Carbomer
Maltodextrin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Polysorbate 20
PCA
Caprylyl Glycol
Tribehenin
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Sodium Benzoate
Lactic Acid
Sodium Oleate
CI 17200
CI 19140
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Propanediol, Tripelargonin, Betaine, Sea Water, Pullulan, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Gardenia Jasminoides Meristem Cell Culture, Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carnosine, Collagen, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Lactobacillus, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Glutamic Acid, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Heptapeptide-7, Lecithin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-49, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Arginine, Tetrapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-68, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Proline, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Dextran, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium PCA, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Lactate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sodium Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Maltodextrin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, PCA, Caprylyl Glycol, Tribehenin, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid, Sodium Oleate, Parfum, CI 17200, CI 19140
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.
It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.
According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.
This synthetic, signal peptide has unique skin conditioning properties in that is a matrikine-mimetic compound.
First of all, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a signal peptide; signal peptides tell the body to create more collagen.
What is a matrikine-mimetic compound?
This peptide has the ability to mimic matrikines in skin. Our skin created matrikines by breaking down matrix proteins into peptides.
Matrikines play a role in:
Though further research is needed, this ingredient seems pretty promising. In one study, women over the age of 40 with visible photoaging used a vitamin C serum with this ingredient for 56 days (15% ascorbid acid, 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38). The results found improvement in skin roughness and skin tone.
This peptide is also part of the famous Matrixyl synthe’6, a blend of ingredients that also includes glycerin, water, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.