Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream Versus Vichy Mineral 89 Eyes Hyaluronic Acid Eye Gel Cream

Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream Versus Vichy Mineral 89 Eyes Hyaluronic Acid Eye Gel Cream

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Coco-Caprylate

Titanium Dioxide

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cocoglycerides

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceteareth-6 Olivate

Diethylhexyl Succinate

Lauryl Glucoside

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Kaolin

Bentonite

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

Triheptanoin

Curcumin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Panthenol

Sorbitol

Mica

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Jojoba Esters

Sodium Phytate

Alumina

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Caffeine

Silica

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil

Benzyl Acetate

Geraniol

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Citral

Linalool

Decanal

Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil

Potassium Sorbate

Tin Oxide

Iron Oxides

C13-16 Isoparaffin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Coco-Caprylate, Titanium Dioxide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Kaolin, Bentonite, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Triheptanoin, Curcumin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Panthenol, Sorbitol, Mica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Phytate, Alumina, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Caffeine, Silica, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil, Benzyl Acetate, Geraniol, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Citral, Linalool, Decanal, Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Tin Oxide, Iron Oxides, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Propanediol

Carbomer

Adenosine

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Water, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Carbomer, Caffeine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Biosaccharide Gum-1

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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