Skin science article
Dermaceutic Laboratoire Derma Lift 5.0 Eye Lifting Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum
Dermaceutic Laboratoire Derma Lift 5.0 Eye Lifting Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture
Dermaceutic Laboratoire Derma Lift 5.0 Eye Lifting Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Eye Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer
Propylene Glycol
Glycerin
Methyl Gluceth-20
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetearyl Olivate
Cetyl Palmitate
Panthenol
Butylene Glycol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Bakuchiol
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Tocopherol
Allantoin
Cholesterol
Sodium PCA
Magnesium PCA
Zinc PCA
Manganese PCA
Phospholipids
Sphingolipids
Lecithin
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Sorbitan Palmitate
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Laureth-21
Sodium Lactate
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Chlorphenesin
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Citrate
Water, Dimethicone, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Bakuchiol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Cholesterol, Sodium PCA, Magnesium PCA, Zinc PCA, Manganese PCA, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Lecithin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Sorbitan Palmitate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Laureth-21, Sodium Lactate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate
Propanediol
Dipropylene Glycol
Acetyl Glucosamine
Niacinamide
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Caffeine
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
Gallyl Glucoside
Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract
Silanetriol
Arginine
Pentylene Glycol
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Propyl Gallate
Maltodextrin
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Citric Acid
Glycolic Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Acetyl Glucosamine, Niacinamide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Caffeine, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Silanetriol, Arginine, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Propyl Gallate, Maltodextrin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.