Dermalogica BioLumin-C Gel Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

Dermalogica BioLumin-C Gel Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

This pore-care treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine to refine the look of pores and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Squalane

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

PPG-24-Glycereth-24

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Trehalose

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Allantoin

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium PCA

Sodium Levulinate

Ergothioneine

Beta-Carotene

Lactobacillus Ferment

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Verbascum Thapsus Extract

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Raspberry Ketone

Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract

Santalum Album Oil

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Bisabolol

Cystine

Glycine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Tocopherol

Mannitol

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Sodium Hydroxide

Phytic Acid

Citric Acid

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

C12-13 Pareth-3

Xanthan Gum

Sclerotium Gum

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate

Glyceryl Caprylate

P-Anisic Acid

Benzyl Glycol

Methylpropanediol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, PPG-24-Glycereth-24, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Trehalose, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Allantoin, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium PCA, Sodium Levulinate, Ergothioneine, Beta-Carotene, Lactobacillus Ferment, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Verbascum Thapsus Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Raspberry Ketone, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Santalum Album Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Bisabolol, Cystine, Glycine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Mannitol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, C12-13 Pareth-3, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Glyceryl Caprylate, P-Anisic Acid, Benzyl Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene

Niacinamide 20%

Acetyl Glucosamine

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Lecithin

Pullulan

Panthenol

Silica

Sodium Phytate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Niacinamide 20%, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Lecithin, Pullulan, Panthenol, Silica, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sclerotium Gum is a natural sugar-based fiber made by fermenting a fungus called Sclerotium rolfsii. It's often used as the plant-friendly alternative for synthetic thickeners like carbomer.

In skincare, it works as a thickener, gel former, and stabilizer that keeps heavy ingredients suspended so a product does not separate.

It is non-ionic and forms a triple helix in solution. This is just a fancy way of saying it builds a smooth, cushiony, and non-sticky gel that feels silkier than many other gums.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it is very sturdy and holds up across a wide pH range (~2-11). It's also good at resisting heat and hydrolysis.

Since it holds water at the skin surface, it can provide some light hydration as well.

Typical use levels are around 0.25-2%; formulators usually use 0.2-0.5% to thicken lotions and up to 2% for a firmer gel base.

This ingredient has been found safe in cosmetics with no meaningful evidence of skin sensitization.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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