Skin science article
Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balance Moisturizer Versus Olehenriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer
Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balance Moisturizer Versus Olehenriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barr
Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balance Moisturizer Versus Olehenriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Butylene Glycol
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Cetyl Caprylate
Stearic Acid
PEG-8
Octyldodecanol
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate Se
PEG-100 Stearate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Ceramide NP
Phytosterols
Centella Asiatica Extract
Linoleic Acid
Echinacea Purpurea Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Extract
Palmitic Acid
Myristic Acid
Rosa Centifolia Extract
Lactic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Propanediol
Tocopherol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Cetyl Alcohol
Carbomer
Hydroxystearic Acid
Aminomethyl Propanol
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetyl Caprylate, Stearic Acid, PEG-8, Octyldodecanol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Se, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Ceramide NP, Phytosterols, Centella Asiatica Extract, Linoleic Acid, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Palmitic Acid, Myristic Acid, Rosa Centifolia Extract, Lactic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Propanediol, Tocopherol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Hydroxystearic Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin
Methylpropanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Niacinamide
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Carnosine
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Collagen
Serine
Alanine
Glycine
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Threonine
Arginine
Proline
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Panthenol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Betaine
PCA
Cyanocobalamin
Xylitol
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitylglucoside
Sorbitan Olivate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Laurate
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Polysorbate 60
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glycine Soja Oil
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polysorbate 20
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Parfum
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Water, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Niacinamide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Carnosine, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Collagen, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Betaine, PCA, Cyanocobalamin, Xylitol, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitylglucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Laurate, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glycine Soja Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Linoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties.
Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, naturally contains high amounts of linoleic acid.
Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing.
Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.
One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than olive oil.
This ingredient can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.
Studies show it can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.
Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.
Fun fact: Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid. This means our bodies cannot create it on its own and we need to get it through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.
Just know this ingredient is not always fungal-acne safe because it is a long-chain fatty acid (with 18 carbon atoms) that directly feeds the Malassezia yeast responsible for fungal acne.
Linolenic Acid is also known as "ALA" or alpha-linolenic acid. It is a key fatty acid.
Our skin uses this ingredient for maintaining a healthy skin barrier, regulating inflammation, and supporting keratinocyte function.
ALA is a great skin hydrator because it has the ability to restore lipids in our stratum corneum, or outermost layer of our skin; it also helps prevent transepidermal water loss.
This ingredient also helps soothe irritated skin by downregulating inflammation.
Chia seed oil is one of the highest natural sources of ALA. Research shows topical chia seed oil significantly improves skin hydration, reduces itch, and strengthens the barrier in both healthy and extremely dry skin.
Additionally, in-vivo and in-vitro studies show ALA exhibits antioxidant properties, reduces UV-induced inflammation, and supports wound healing.
Early research showed a fatty-acid deficiency in animals leads to abnormal skin barrier function. It is believed a deficiency in linolenic acid may be linked to skin disorders like eczema.
Fun fact: This ingredient is considered an essential fatty acid for humans. This means our bodies cannot naturally produce it and we must get it from food. Some foods rich in linolenic acid include walnuts, fish oils, soy, and canola.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!