Skin science article
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Aloe Barbadensis Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This calming essence is formula
Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Aloe Barbadensis Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This calming essence is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Palmitic Acid
Dimethicone
PEG-8
Stearic Acid
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Aloe Barbadensis Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Saccharide Isomerate
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Hedera Helix Extract
Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract
Parietaria Officinalis Extract
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Trehalose
Algin
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Serine
Linoleic Acid
Phospholipids
Phytosterols
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Urea
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Pullulan
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Hexanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Sodium Citrate
Disodium Phosphate
Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Potassium Phosphate
Citric Acid
Tocopherol
Methylpropanediol
Polysorbate 60
Panthenol
Polyquaternium-10
Cetyl Alcohol
PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Aminomethyl Propanol
Carbomer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hydroxide
Hydroxystearic Acid
Myristic Acid
BHT
Benzyl Benzoate
Benzyl Salicylate
Linalool
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, Dimethicone, PEG-8, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Parietaria Officinalis Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Trehalose, Algin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Serine, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Phytosterols, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Urea, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pullulan, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Phosphate, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Phosphate, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Methylpropanediol, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Polyquaternium-10, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxystearic Acid, Myristic Acid, BHT, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Propanediol
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glyceryl Glucoside
Xanthan Gum
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Allantoin
Adenosine
Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Dextrin
Glucose
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate
Disodium EDTA
Panax Ginseng Root Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Adenosine, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Glucose, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!