Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream

Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Aloe Barbadensis Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Palmitic Acid

Dimethicone

PEG-8

Stearic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Aloe Barbadensis Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Hedera Helix Extract

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Parietaria Officinalis Extract

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Trehalose

Algin

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Serine

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Phytosterols

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Urea

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pullulan

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Sodium Citrate

Disodium Phosphate

Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Potassium Phosphate

Citric Acid

Tocopherol

Methylpropanediol

Polysorbate 60

Panthenol

Polyquaternium-10

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Aminomethyl Propanol

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Hydroxystearic Acid

Myristic Acid

BHT

Benzyl Benzoate

Benzyl Salicylate

Linalool

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, Dimethicone, PEG-8, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Hedera Helix Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Parietaria Officinalis Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Trehalose, Algin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Serine, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Phytosterols, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Urea, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pullulan, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sodium Citrate, Disodium Phosphate, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Phosphate, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Methylpropanediol, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Polyquaternium-10, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxystearic Acid, Myristic Acid, BHT, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Betaine

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Magnesium Sulfate

Glycosphingolipids

Glycolipids

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Oleic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Polyglycerin-3

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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