Skin science article
Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel Versus D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Mild Gel Cleanser
Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel Versus D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Mild Gel Cleanser This betaine salicylate gel cleanser is formulated around Betaine Salicylate to clear breakouts and unclog pores. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Sid
Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel Versus D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Mild Gel Cleanser
This betaine salicylate gel cleanser is formulated around Betaine Salicylate to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
Butylene Glycol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Cymbopogon Nardus Oil
Glycerin
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Propanediol
Citric Acid
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Disodium EDTA
PPG-5-Ceteth-20
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Cymbopogon Nardus Oil, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Propanediol, Citric Acid, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Disodium EDTA, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
Coco-Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside
Sodium Chloride
Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Hexylene Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan Gum
Betaine Salicylate
Saccharide Isomerate
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tuber Magnatum Extract
Sodium Citrate
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract
Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract
Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract
Linalool
Water, Glycerin, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Coco-Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Chloride, Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Betaine Salicylate, Saccharide Isomerate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Sodium Citrate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract, Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Linalool
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.
Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.
When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.
A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.
Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.
More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.
Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
Lemon balm is a mint-family herb with skin conditioning properties. It contains components such as rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, geraniol, citronellal, and ursolic acid.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!