Skin science article
Dermalogica Super Rich Repair Moisturizer Versus Olehenriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer
Dermalogica Super Rich Repair Moisturizer Versus Olehenriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin
Dermalogica Super Rich Repair Moisturizer Versus Olehenriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Isohexadecane
Dipropylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
Sodium Chloride
Isostearic Acid
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Pyrus Malus Seed Extract
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
Gardenia Taitensis Flower
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Yeast Extract
Glucosamine Hcl
Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil
Abies Sibirica Oil
Santalum Album Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Colloidal Oatmeal
Madecassoside
Urea
Hexyldecanol
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Cetyl Dimethicone
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Butylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Linalool
Geraniol
Citronellol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Isohexadecane, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Sodium Chloride, Isostearic Acid, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Pyrus Malus Seed Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Gardenia Taitensis Flower, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Yeast Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Abies Sibirica Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Madecassoside, Urea, Hexyldecanol, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Phenoxyethanol
Propanediol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Methylpropanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Niacinamide
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Carnosine
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Collagen
Serine
Alanine
Glycine
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Threonine
Arginine
Proline
Hyaluronic Acid
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Panthenol
Tocopherol
Betaine
PCA
Cyanocobalamin
Xylitol
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitylglucoside
Sorbitan Olivate
Carbomer
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Laurate
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Polysorbate 60
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glycine Soja Oil
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polysorbate 20
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Phytate
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Citric Acid
Parfum
Citral
Limonene
Water, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Niacinamide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Carnosine, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Collagen, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Betaine, PCA, Cyanocobalamin, Xylitol, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitylglucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Laurate, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glycine Soja Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!