Skin science article
Dermalogica Super Rich Repair Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
Dermalogica Super Rich Repair Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barri
Dermalogica Super Rich Repair Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Isohexadecane
Dipropylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
Sodium Chloride
Isostearic Acid
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Pyrus Malus Seed Extract
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
Gardenia Taitensis Flower
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Yeast Extract
Glucosamine Hcl
Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil
Abies Sibirica Oil
Santalum Album Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Colloidal Oatmeal
Madecassoside
Urea
Hexyldecanol
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Cetyl Dimethicone
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Butylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Linalool
Geraniol
Citronellol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Isohexadecane, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Sodium Chloride, Isostearic Acid, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Pyrus Malus Seed Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Gardenia Taitensis Flower, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Yeast Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Abies Sibirica Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Madecassoside, Urea, Hexyldecanol, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Phenoxyethanol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Olus Oil
Cetyl Lactate
Propanediol
C12-16 Alcohols
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Palmitic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Squalene
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Xanthan Gum
Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate
Glycine Soja Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Citric Acid
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Tocopherol
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phytosterols
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Gluconolactone
Phenethyl Alcohol
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Carbomer
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!