Skin science article
Dermwel Daily Dose Versus Prequel Half & Half Peptides & Ceramides Fluid Moisturizer
Dermwel Daily Dose Versus Prequel Half & Half Peptides & Ceramides Fluid Moisturizer This smoothing serum is formulated around Gluconolactone and Mandelic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Cer
Dermwel Daily Dose Versus Prequel Half & Half Peptides & Ceramides Fluid Moisturizer
This smoothing serum is formulated around Gluconolactone and Mandelic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Hexapeptide-11 to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Gluconolactone
Squalane
Mandelic Acid
Isopentyldiol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Undecane
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Allantoin
Salicylic Acid
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Polylysine
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Sodium Citrate
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Isostearamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate
Isostearic Acid
Glucose
1,2-Hexanediol
Tridecane
PEG-8
Citric Acid
Carnosine
Panthenol
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Lactic Acid
Salix Nigra Bark Extract
Propylene Glycol
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Succinate
Tocopherol
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Gluconolactone, Squalane, Mandelic Acid, Isopentyldiol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Undecane, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Allantoin, Salicylic Acid, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Polylysine, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Sodium Citrate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Isostearic Acid, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tridecane, PEG-8, Citric Acid, Carnosine, Panthenol, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Lactic Acid, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Propylene Glycol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Succinate, Tocopherol
Isopropyl Myristate
Ethylhexyl Olivate
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Ceramide NP
Ceramide As
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Hexapeptide-11
Matrixyl 3000
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Triolein
Glyceryl Oleate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glyceryl Dioleate
Caprylyl Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Betaine
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Sodium Phytate
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
PCA
Sodium Benzoate
Serine
Alanine
Palmitic Acid
Glycine
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Threonine
Arginine
Proline
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Isopropyl Myristate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Squalane, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Hexapeptide-11, Matrixyl 3000, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Triolein, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Oleate, Undecane, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Dioleate, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tridecane, Betaine, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Sodium Benzoate, Serine, Alanine, Palmitic Acid, Glycine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tridecane is a lightweight emollient and fragrancing ingredient. It is a paraffin and often called a silicone alternative.
According to official INCI guidelines, this ingredient is used to give a light odor to raw materials. It is often used as a starter ingredient to create parfum.
This ingredient can be derived from palm oil, or coconut oil. It is also naturally found in certain species of organisms.
According to the NOAA, this ingredient can cause skin sensitivity with prolonged use. However, this warning is taken from the Coast Guard and no studies have been done on this in relation to cosmetics.
Tridecane is not water soluble.
Undecane is an emollient and helps create a lightweight base for products.
Is is not soluble in water and naturally occurring in some species.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!