Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Recharge Gel Cream

Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Recharge Gel Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturi

Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream Versus iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Recharge Gel Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76 to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methylpropanediol

Squalane

Cetyl Alcohol

Meadowfoam Estolide

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Tribehenin

Sodium PCA

Urea

Carbomer

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Collagen Amino Acids

Propanediol

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Trehalose

Linoleic Acid

Phytosterols

Phospholipids

Palmitic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Ceramide Ng

Hexylene Glycol

PEG-10 Phytosterol

Polyquaternium-51

Triacetin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Sodium Hydroxide

Lactic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Meadowfoam Estolide, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Tribehenin, Sodium PCA, Urea, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Collagen Amino Acids, Propanediol, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Trehalose, Linoleic Acid, Phytosterols, Phospholipids, Palmitic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide Ng, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Polyquaternium-51, Triacetin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactic Acid

Panax Ginseng Root Water

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sodium Chloride

Butylene Glycol

Undecane

1,2-Hexanediol

C13-15 Alkane

Calanthe Discolor Extract

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hexapeptide-9

Sea Water Extract

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide NP

Allantoin

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glyceryl Glucoside

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Pistacia Lentiscus Gum

Arginine

Panthenol

Gluconolactone

Phytosphingosine

Glycosphingolipids

Pentylene Glycol

Cholesterol

Tetraacetylphytosphingosine

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone

Phenethyl Alcohol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Glyceryl Stearate

Sorbitol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Benzoate

Stearic Acid

Tridecane

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Calcium Gluconate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Tocopherol

Zinc Stearate

Mica

CI 77891

Water, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Chloride, Butylene Glycol, Undecane, 1,2-Hexanediol, C13-15 Alkane, Squalane, Calanthe Discolor Extract, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-9, Sea Water Extract, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Allantoin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glyceryl Glucoside, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, Arginine, Panthenol, Gluconolactone, Phytosphingosine, Glycosphingolipids, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Benzoate, Stearic Acid, Tridecane, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Calcium Gluconate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopherol, Zinc Stearate, Mica, CI 77891

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone created by modifying dimethicone with hydrocarbon side chains. Due to its large size, it does not penetrate skin. It is considered non-occlusive.

Dimethicone Crosspolymer is used to stabilize and thicken products. It also helps give products a silky feel.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Dimethicone
  4. 04Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  5. 05C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
  6. 06Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  7. 07Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
  8. 08Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  9. 09Methylpropanediol
  10. 10Squalane
  11. 11Cetyl Alcohol
  12. 12Meadowfoam Estolide
  13. 13Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
  14. 14Tribehenin
  15. 15Sodium PCA
  16. 16Urea
  17. 17Carbomer
  18. 18Phenoxyethanol
  19. 19Caprylyl Glycol
  20. 20Collagen Amino Acids
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side