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Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum Versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum

Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum Versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum This smoothing serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts. This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid an

Disciple Shadow Work AHA/BHA Serum Versus The INKEY List Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Serum

This smoothing serum is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.

This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Zinc PCA to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Glycolic Acid

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Propylene Glycol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Phenoxyethanol

Salicylic Acid

Amylopectin

Dextrin

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Polyacrylate

Disodium Phosphate

Polysorbate 60

CI 16255

Sodium Phosphate

CI 42090

Water, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Salicylic Acid, Amylopectin, Dextrin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, CI 16255, Sodium Phosphate, CI 42090

Propanediol

Betaine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Zinc PCA

Maltodextrin

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Propanediol, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.

This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.

This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
  4. 04You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
  5. 05These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
  6. 06This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
  7. 07Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
  8. 08Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  9. 09Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  10. 10Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  11. 11Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  12. 12This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  13. 13Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  14. 14Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  15. 15Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
  16. 16It’s often used to:
  17. 17Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
  18. 18Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
  19. 19In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
  20. 20Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm

The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm The Inkey List Oat Cleansing Balm ingredients explained: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Av…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side