Skin science article
Doa Kozmetik AHA-BHA %3 Tonik Versus Paula's Choice 8% AHA Lotion Exfoliant
Doa Kozmetik AHA-BHA %3 Tonik Versus Paula's Choice 8% AHA Lotion Exfoliant This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts. This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid
Doa Kozmetik AHA-BHA %3 Tonik Versus Paula's Choice 8% AHA Lotion Exfoliant
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Pentylene Glycol
Dimethyl Sulfone
Sodium Lactate
Salicylic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Lactic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethyl Sulfone, Sodium Lactate, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycerin
Beheneth-5
Dimethicone
Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Undecane
Arachidyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Phospholipids
Allantoin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Bisabolol
Arctium Lappa Seed Oil
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Panthenol
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Tridecane
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Sclerotium Gum
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Disodium EDTA
Tocopherol
Chlorphenesin
Benzoic Acid
Sorbic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycolic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Beheneth-5, Dimethicone, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Undecane, Arachidyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Phospholipids, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Bisabolol, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Panthenol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Tridecane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Sclerotium Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!