Skin science article
Dot & Key Skincare 72 HR Hydrating Gel Moisturizer + Probiotics Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer
Dot & Key Skincare 72 HR Hydrating Gel Moisturizer + Probiotics Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrat
Dot & Key Skincare 72 HR Hydrating Gel Moisturizer + Probiotics Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil-Control Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Glycerin
Polyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Laureth-7
Silanetriol
Hyaluronic Acid
Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
C12-13 Pareth-23
C12-13 Pareth-3
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Saccharide Isomerate
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Avena Sativa Meal Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Lactobacillus
Maltodextrin
Sodium Hydroxide
Methylsilanol Mannuronate
Phenoxyethanol
Methylisothiazolinone
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Disodium EDTA
CI 42090
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Silanetriol, Hyaluronic Acid, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, C12-13 Pareth-23, C12-13 Pareth-3, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Saccharide Isomerate, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, CI 42090
Dimethicone
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Nylon-12
Acrylates Crosspolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Oleanolic Acid
Sorbitan Isostearate
Caprylyl Glycol
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Lecithin
Polysilicone-11
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Caprylate
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Laureth-8
Citric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Nylon-12, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycerin, Oleanolic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lecithin, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Caprylate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Laureth-8, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!