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Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Dot & Key Skincare Watermelon Cooling Hydrogel Eye Patches

Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Dot & Key Skincare Watermelon Cooling Hydrogel Eye Patches This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spo

Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Dot & Key Skincare Watermelon Cooling Hydrogel Eye Patches

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This calming eye mask is formulated around Niacinamide and Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract to calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butylene Glycol

Dicaprylyl Ether

Siloxanetriol Alginate

Caffeine

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Lauryl Laurate

Glycerin

C14-22 Alcohols

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Stearyl Dimethicone

Octadecene

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Allantoin

Disodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Retinol

Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract

Acetyl Tyrosine

Arbutin

Glutathione

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Methylsilanol Mannuronate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

BHT

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Caffeine, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Lauryl Laurate, Glycerin, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Stearyl Dimethicone, Octadecene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Acetyl Tyrosine, Arbutin, Glutathione, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, BHT

Carrageenan

Niacinamide

Glyceryl Glucoside

Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Extract

Aminomethyl Propanol

Xanthan Gum

Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Propanediol

Glycolic Acid

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

DMDM Hydantoin

Methylchloroisothiazolinone

Methylisothiazolinone

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Titanium Dioxide

Tin Oxide

CI 12490

Water, Glycerin, Carrageenan, Niacinamide, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Caffeine, Allantoin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Propanediol, Glycolic Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, DMDM Hydantoin, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, CI 12490

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.

This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.

As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.

The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.

This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.

It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.

Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.

At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
  14. 14That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
  15. 15Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
  16. 16In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than…
  17. 17Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
  18. 18A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
  19. 19A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
  20. 20You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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