Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex

Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Complex

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Caffeine to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butylene Glycol

Dicaprylyl Ether

Siloxanetriol Alginate

Caffeine

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Lauryl Laurate

Glycerin

C14-22 Alcohols

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Stearyl Dimethicone

Octadecene

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Allantoin

Disodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Retinol

Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract

Acetyl Tyrosine

Arbutin

Glutathione

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Methylsilanol Mannuronate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

BHT

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Caffeine, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Lauryl Laurate, Glycerin, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Stearyl Dimethicone, Octadecene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Acetyl Tyrosine, Arbutin, Glutathione, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, BHT

Methyl Trimethicone

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Dimethicone

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Propanediol

Sucrose

Petrolatum

Polysorbate 40

Trehalose

Algae Extract

Morus Bombycis Root Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Betula Alba Bark Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract

Jojoba Alcohol

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Isopropyl Jojobate

Jojoba Esters

Isohexadecane

Faex Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Cholesterol

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Sodium Rna

Polysorbate 80

Caprylyl Glycol

Phytosphingosine

Squalane

Potassium Sulfate

Tripeptide-32

Tromethamine

Phenoxyethanol

CI 77491

CI 77492

CI 77499

Methyl Trimethicone, Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Sucrose, Petrolatum, Polysorbate 40, Trehalose, Algae Extract, Morus Bombycis Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Jojoba Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Isopropyl Jojobate, Jojoba Esters, Isohexadecane, Faex Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Cholesterol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Rna, Caffeine, Polysorbate 80, Caprylyl Glycol, Phytosphingosine, Squalane, Potassium Sulfate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tripeptide-32, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.

In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.

In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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