Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Pilgrim Squalane Roll-On Under Eye Serum

Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Pilgrim Squalane Roll-On Under Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-agin

Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Pilgrim Squalane Roll-On Under Eye Serum

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butylene Glycol

Dicaprylyl Ether

Siloxanetriol Alginate

Caffeine

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Lauryl Laurate

Glycerin

C14-22 Alcohols

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Stearyl Dimethicone

Octadecene

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Allantoin

Disodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Retinol

Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract

Acetyl Tyrosine

Arbutin

Glutathione

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Methylsilanol Mannuronate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopherol

BHT

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Caffeine, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Lauryl Laurate, Glycerin, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Stearyl Dimethicone, Octadecene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Acetyl Tyrosine, Arbutin, Glutathione, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, BHT

Niacinamide

Betaine

Squalane

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter

Bidens Pilosa Extract

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Maltodextrin

Punica Granatum Flower Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Cetyl Alcohol

Lecithin

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Stearic Acid

Sodium Gluconate

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Polianthes Tuberosa Flower Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Water, Caffeine, Niacinamide, Betaine, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Glycerin, Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maltodextrin, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Polianthes Tuberosa Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  7. 07Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  8. 08In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  9. 09While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  10. 10Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  11. 11This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  12. 12This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  13. 13Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
  14. 14Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
  15. 15It plays several roles in a formula:
  16. 16Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
  17. 17Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
  18. 18However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
  19. 19Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
  20. 20Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Potz Caffeine Eye Cream

Potz Caffeine Eye Cream Potz Caffeine Eye Cream ingredients explained: Aqua, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Trigly…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side