Skin science article
Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Pilgrim Squalane Roll-On Under Eye Serum
Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Pilgrim Squalane Roll-On Under Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-agin
Dot & Key Skincare Pomegranate Retinol + Caffeine Eye Cream Versus Pilgrim Squalane Roll-On Under Eye Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butylene Glycol
Dicaprylyl Ether
Siloxanetriol Alginate
Caffeine
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Lauryl Laurate
Glycerin
C14-22 Alcohols
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Stearyl Dimethicone
Octadecene
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Allantoin
Disodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Hyaluronate
Retinol
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract
Acetyl Tyrosine
Arbutin
Glutathione
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Methylsilanol Mannuronate
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Benzyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopherol
BHT
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Caffeine, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Lauryl Laurate, Glycerin, C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Stearyl Dimethicone, Octadecene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinol, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Acetyl Tyrosine, Arbutin, Glutathione, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, BHT
Niacinamide
Betaine
Squalane
Ethylhexyl Olivate
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
Bidens Pilosa Extract
Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Maltodextrin
Punica Granatum Flower Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Cetyl Alcohol
Lecithin
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Stearic Acid
Sodium Gluconate
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Polianthes Tuberosa Flower Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Water, Caffeine, Niacinamide, Betaine, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Glycerin, Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Maltodextrin, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Polianthes Tuberosa Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!