Dove Damage Therapy Bond Strength 10 in 1 Serum Mask Versus Sebastian Professional Dark Oil Lightweight Mask

Dove Damage Therapy Bond Strength 10 in 1 Serum Mask Versus Sebastian Professional Dark Oil Lightweight Mask

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glycerin

Behentrimonium Chloride

Dimethiconol/Silsesquioxane Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Dipropylene Glycol

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Parfum

Citric Acid

Lactic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Gluconate

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Citrate

Cetrimonium Chloride

Benzyl Salicylate

Citronellol

Hexyl Cinnamal

Limonene

Linalool

CI 19140

CI 17200

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Dimethiconol/Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Dipropylene Glycol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Parfum, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Gluconate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, CI 19140, CI 17200

Stearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

Panthenol

Isopropyl Alcohol

Benzyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

PEG-2m

Methylparaben

Propylene Glycol

Quaternium-80

Propylparaben

Coumarin

Silica

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

BHT

Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Alcohol, Parfum, Panthenol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-2m, Methylparaben, Propylene Glycol, Quaternium-80, Propylparaben, Disodium EDTA, Hexyl Cinnamal, Coumarin, Citronellol, Silica, Citric Acid, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, BHT

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is a preservative and often used for it's anti-static properties. You'll most likely see this ingredient in hair conditioners.

It does not cause irritation or sensitization in leave-on products at 1-5%.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.

This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.

Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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