Skin science article
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Mist Versus The INKEY List Hydro-Surge Dewy Face Mist
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Mist Versus The INKEY List Hydro-Surge Dewy Face Mist This barrier-repair toner is formulated around Panthenol and Madecassoside to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This hydrating toner is formulated around Cucumis Sati
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Mist Versus The INKEY List Hydro-Surge Dewy Face Mist
This barrier-repair toner is formulated around Panthenol and Madecassoside to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This hydrating toner is formulated around Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract to hydrate skin and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
1,2-Hexanediol
Triethylhexanoin
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Tocopherol
Water
Butylene Glycol
Methylpropanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
Pyrus Malus Juice
Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Polyquaternium-51
Betaine
Trilaureth-4 Phosphate
Cynanchum Atratum Extract
Althaea Rosea Flower Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Sea Salt
Aspergillus Ferment
Sodium Phytate
Citric Acid
Madecassoside
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
Bifida Ferment Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Silanetriol
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Rice Amino Acids
Oryza Sativa Bran Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Tocopherol, Water, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Pyrus Malus Juice, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Betaine, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Sea Salt, Aspergillus Ferment, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Madecassoside, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Bifida Ferment Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Silanetriol, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Rice Amino Acids
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Xylitylglucoside
Maris Aqua
Phenoxyethanol
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Lactic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycerin, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Betaine, Xylitylglucoside, Maris Aqua, Phenoxyethanol, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Citric Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Lactic Acid, Sodium Benzoate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!