Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Versus Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream

Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Versus Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Vinyldimethicone

C14-22 Alcohols

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Panthenol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Butylene Glycol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Caprylyl Methicone

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Hydroxyacetophenone

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Polyquaternium-51

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tromethamine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water

Beta-Glucan

Resveratrol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Tocopherol

Madecassoside

Sodium DNA

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ceramide NP

Tannic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Phytate

Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Vinyldimethicone, C14-22 Alcohols, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Methicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyquaternium-51, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Beta-Glucan, Resveratrol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Tocopherol, Madecassoside, Sodium DNA, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide NP, Tannic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate

Dimethicone

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Methylpropanediol

Squalane

Cetyl Alcohol

Meadowfoam Estolide

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Tribehenin

Sodium PCA

Urea

Carbomer

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Collagen Amino Acids

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Trehalose

Linoleic Acid

Phytosterols

Phospholipids

Palmitic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Ceramide Ng

Hexylene Glycol

PEG-10 Phytosterol

Triacetin

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Sodium Hydroxide

Lactic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Meadowfoam Estolide, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Tribehenin, Sodium PCA, Urea, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Collagen Amino Acids, Propanediol, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Trehalose, Linoleic Acid, Phytosterols, Phospholipids, Palmitic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide Ng, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Polyquaternium-51, Triacetin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactic Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Polyquaternium-51 is a polymer salt. It helps hydrate the skin by creating a film on top. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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