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Skin science article

Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 88 + Peptide Cream

Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 88 + Peptide Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formula

Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 88 + Peptide Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water

Propanediol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Vinyldimethicone

C14-22 Alcohols

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Panthenol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Butylene Glycol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Caprylyl Methicone

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Hydroxyacetophenone

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Polyquaternium-51

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tromethamine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water

Beta-Glucan

Resveratrol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Tocopherol

Madecassoside

Sodium DNA

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ceramide NP

Tannic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Phytate

Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Vinyldimethicone, C14-22 Alcohols, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Methicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyquaternium-51, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Beta-Glucan, Resveratrol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Tocopherol, Madecassoside, Sodium DNA, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide NP, Tannic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate

Snail Secretion Filtrate 88%

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Betaine

Cetearyl Alcohol

Triethylhexanoin

Phenoxyethanol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Carbomer

Ethyl Hexanediol

Arginine

Allantoin

Sodium Polyacrylate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Xanthan Gum

Adenosine

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Snail Secretion Filtrate 88%, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Water, Triethylhexanoin, Phenoxyethanol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Carbomer, Ethyl Hexanediol, Arginine, Allantoin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Adenosine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
  4. 04The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
  5. 05Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down o…
  6. 06The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
  7. 07A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at…
  8. 08A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
  9. 09On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
  10. 10This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
  11. 11Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
  12. 12Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
  13. 13Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
  14. 14Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
  15. 15It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
  16. 16Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
  17. 17This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
  18. 18Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
  19. 19Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
  20. 20Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Source · skinsort.com
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Comparison edit

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