Skin science article
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Versus Nuuha Beauty 7X Peptide Ultimate Glass Skin Moisturiser
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Versus Nuuha Beauty 7X Peptide Ultimate Glass Skin Moisturiser This calming moisturizer is formulated around Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging moisturi
Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream Versus Nuuha Beauty 7X Peptide Ultimate Glass Skin Moisturiser
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Vinyldimethicone
C14-22 Alcohols
Niacinamide
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Panthenol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Butylene Glycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Caprylyl Methicone
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Hydroxyacetophenone
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polyquaternium-51
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tromethamine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Beta-Glucan
Resveratrol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Tocopherol
Madecassoside
Sodium DNA
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ceramide NP
Tannic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Phytate
Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Vinyldimethicone, C14-22 Alcohols, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Methicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyquaternium-51, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Beta-Glucan, Resveratrol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Tocopherol, Madecassoside, Sodium DNA, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide NP, Tannic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Ceramide Ns
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Oligopeptide-29
Oligopeptide-32
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Dimethicone
Caprylyl Glycol
Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Triethylhexanoin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Isostearic Acid
Sucrose Stearate
PEG-8
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Squalane
Arginine
Pentylene Glycol
Carbomer
Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract
Allantoin
Trehalose
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Octyldodecanol
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Disodium EDTA, Isostearic Acid, Sucrose Stearate, PEG-8, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Arginine, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Trehalose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!