Skin science article
Dr. Althea Cica Relief Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+
Dr. Althea Cica Relief Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side
Dr. Althea Cica Relief Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Alcohol
Dibutyl Adipate
Phenethyl Benzoate
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Caprylyl Methicone
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Hexyl Laurate
Niacinamide
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Centella Asiatica Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Chlorella Ferment
Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polysilicone-15
1,2-Hexanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane
Methylpropanediol
Polyether-1
Adenosine
Panthenol
Butylene Glycol
Maltodextrin
Lecithin
Xanthophylls
Disodium EDTA
Limonene
Linalool
Guaiazulene
Water, Alcohol, Dibutyl Adipate, Phenethyl Benzoate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Caprylyl Methicone, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Hexyl Laurate, Niacinamide, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Chlorella Ferment, Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-15, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Methylpropanediol, Polyether-1, Adenosine, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Maltodextrin, Lecithin, Xanthophylls, Disodium EDTA, Limonene, Linalool, Guaiazulene
Oryza Sativa Seed Water
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Tromethamine
Glyceryl Stearate
Silica
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Propanediol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan Gum
Glycerin
Polyquaternium-51
Beta-Glucan
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Inositol
Tocopherol
Ferulic Acid
Citric Acid
Ceramide NP
Phytosphingosine
Rice Amino Acids
Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Caprylyl Methicone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Propanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Polyether-1, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Inositol, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Rice Amino Acids, Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
This ingredient is better known as bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S and is one of the best broad-spectrum UV filters in modern sunscreen.
It works by absorbing UV light across a whole range (280-400 nm) with peaks around 310 nm (UVB) and 340-345 nm (UVA). This means it covers UVB plus the deeper UVA wavelengths that drive photoaging and pigmentation.
Another pro?
It's exceptionally photostable, barely degrades in sunlight, and acts as a "bodyguard" for less stable filters.
That's why you'll see it paired with avobenzone or octinoxate; this team up ensures they keep working through sun exposure.
Safety reviews have been reassuring across the board. This ingredient shows low absorption through the skin, rarely irritates, and lab studies found it doesn't act like a hormone in the body (a concern that's been raised about some older sunscreen filters).
On maximum concentrations:
In 2026, the US F.D.A finally added it as an OTC sunscreen ingredient at concentrations up to 6% for adults / children 6 months and older
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.
You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.
This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.
In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.
Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
We don't have a description for Polyether-1 yet.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!