Skin science article
Dr. Althea Gentle Vitamin C Serum Versus Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Dr. Althea Gentle Vitamin C Serum Versus Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This hydrating serum i
Dr. Althea Gentle Vitamin C Serum Versus Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Water
Niacinamide
Propanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Xanthan Gum
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Allantoin
Bifida Ferment Filtrate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Butylene Glycol
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Water, Niacinamide, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol
Sea Water
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
Betaine
Pentylene Glycol
Carbomer
Panthenol
Malachite Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Glyceryl Glucoside
Sodium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate
Sodium Sulfated Hyaluronate
Madecassoside
Beta-Glucan
Sodium Stearoyl Hyaluronate
Sodium Oleoyl Hyaluronate
Sea Water, Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Malachite Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate, Sodium Sulfated Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Stearoyl Hyaluronate, Sodium Oleoyl Hyaluronate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.