Dr. Barbara Sturm Calming Serum Versus Beauty Bay Skinhit 0.2% Retinol Complex Serum With Retinol And Peptides

Dr. Barbara Sturm Calming Serum Versus Beauty Bay Skinhit 0.2% Retinol Complex Serum With Retinol And Peptides

This calming serum is formulated around Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil and Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Glycerin

Octyldodecanol

Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Panthenol

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Stearic Acid

Dimethicone

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Pantolactone

Tocopherol

Citric Acid

Water, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Pantolactone, Tocopherol, Citric Acid

Propanediol

Polysorbate 20

Retinol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Sodium Citrate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Disodium EDTA

1,2-Hexanediol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

BHT

BHA

Water, Propanediol, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Sodium Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, BHT, BHA

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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